One of my favourite memories of the whole holiday was sitting at the bus stop on our way back up from the beach, after dinner. The hill up from the sea front, winding through narrow alleyways between shops and restaurants, is quite steep and with the humid heat, it made sense to pause at the church next to the main road. Here, dark marble benches are set out in the compact main square for those awaiting onward transport. In true italian tradition, locals and taxi drivers gathered to watch and take part in the daily passegiata. We chose fruit-flavoured "granite", the original italian version of Slush Puppies, and watched as the temporary and permanent residents – including canine ones – passed by.